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Chef Thanh Vuong Vo’s Ho Chi Minh City is the City that Dreams Are Made Of

Ẩm thực, từ lâu, đã vượt ra khỏi khái niệm “ăn để sống”. Nó trở thành một hình thức du hành tinh tế không cần hộ chiếu, không cần vali, chỉ cần một chiếc thìa và trái tim mở rộng. Với không ít người, hành trình khám phá một vùng đất mới bắt đầu từ chợ, từ quán nhỏ góc phố, từ mùi thơm bốc lên từ nồi nước dùng đang sôi sục.

Ý niệm ấy chính là linh hồn của thực đơn “Lữ Hành”, tasting menu mới được ra mắt như một chuyến đi trở về, không bằng tàu xe, mà bằng vị giác. Một hành trình từ Bắc chí Nam, qua 11 món ăn như 11 chương hồi, mỗi món là một “trạm dừng” cảm xúc.

Thay vì mô phỏng lại món ăn truyền thống một cách máy móc, người sáng tạo thực đơn chọn cách đi ngược: tháo gỡ món ăn đến tận lõi để tìm lại linh hồn, rồi dựng lại món ăn theo cách riêng, bằng kỹ thuật hiện đại và cảm xúc cá nhân.

Món đầu tiên – Gamelle of Memories là minh chứng rõ rệt cho điều đó. Lấy cảm hứng từ hộp cơm gamelle mà bao thế hệ từng mang theo trong những năm tháng gian khó, món ăn tái hiện hình ảnh ấy bằng hương vị của lươn nướng than, lươn hun khói và nước dùng xương ninh nhiều giờ ấm đậm, sâu như một lời thì thầm từ đồng quê.

Từ đó, “Lữ Hành” tiếp tục đưa thực khách đi qua các vùng đất khác nhau của Việt Nam: từ cao nguyên sương mù đến đồng bằng sông nước, từ biển cả xanh biếc đến vùng trung du xứ Huế. Mỗi món là một góc nhìn, một hồi tưởng, một giọng kể riêng biệt lúc thanh, lúc đậm, lúc mộc mạc, lúc cầu kỳ. Nhưng tựu trung lại, đó là những mảnh hồn Việt tinh lọc qua kỹ nghệ hiện đại và tinh thần đương đại. Song song với đó, hành trình vị giác còn được mở rộng qua các tuyến pairing được thiết kế để tương tác, bổ sung cho từng món ăn có cồn và phi cồn mang đến trải nghiệm đa tầng lớp và tinh tế cho cả những thực khách yêu thích sự nhẹ nhàng, tinh táo.

Ra đời trong giai đoạn ẩm thực Việt ngày càng khẳng định được vị thế trên bản đồ thế giới “Lữ Hành” không chỉ là một set menu đặc biệt, mà còn là nguyên tuyên ngôn: răng món ăn Việt có thể vừa đầy bản sắc, vừa giàu kỹ thuật, vừa mang tính cá nhân, vừa đánh thức ký ức chung.
Và hành trình ấy vẫn tiếp tục không trên bản đồ, mà trên từng chiếc đĩa. Không bằng đôi chân, mà bằng cảm xúc. Không cần tiếng còi tàu, mà bằng một lời mời rất khẽ: mời bạn lên đường qua từng hương vị.

Original Post

VietnamTravel

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity 11

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

Coco Saigon Is Soul Soothing, Jazz Infused, Culinary Creativity

Soothe your soul to the smooth sounds of live jazz in the bar. Cosy up at the restaurant counter and blissfully trip through the chef’s tasting menu. Or sip cocktails in the courtyard as the sun sets. The multifunctional Coco Saigon space caters to many moods with its bar, restaurant and courtyard-event space.

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vương

Nam Khi Khoi Nghia winds all the way downtown from the outskirts of the airport, taking in the frenetic activity of Tan Binh, through leafy District 3, right through to the intersection with Vo Van Kiet as that street winds around the river toward District 5 and beyond. Coco Saigon, which you pass on the way, in the romantic tree-lined mid-section, is equally eclectic. Depending on your feeling, it can offer an intimate dinner, a perfectly balanced martini, or a private party for a special occasion. Or all three. So we checked in with four of the Coco Saigon team – Chef Vuong, Winner of Top Chef Vietnam 2019, whiskey aficionado and bar manager Duc, Huyen the sommelier, and operations manager Daniel, who keeps the diverse elements of Coco Saigon together.

Chef Vuong and his menu of air, earth, fire and harvest.

For his menu, he took inspiration from the elements – air, earth, fire, harvest – and incorporated lots of fermentation and other techniques and created dishes like his Japanese tuna belly, with tuna which is dry-aged and combined with watermelon and wasabi sorbet. Or his Ben Luc Frogs Legs, where the frog thighs are slow cooked, sous vide, in Parisian herb butter so the meat is wonderfully tender and served with lemongrass and potatoes. “The goal is simple,” Chef Vuong smiles, “it’s to break boundaries, and defy expectations. My philosophy is to create a contemporary cuisine that blends the best local products with techniques and ingredients from around the world.”

The Coco Saigon team at the counter and open kitchen.

He’s particularly proud of the way the dishes are paced. “From cool and sour, to open up the tastebuds, to rich and salty as the menu delves into diverse regional produce, to varied spices, as the chef explores different continents. Then we finish with some heartwarming sweetness, with our desserts. And then there’s the 300 plus whiskies for afterwards…” he laughs.

Operations Manager Daniel’s Tip: “When you come to Coco Saigon, ask for the kitchen tour. Then, you’ll be introduced to a mysterious room, which is really the heart of our culinary activities – the fermentation room. The soul of our food comes from this room.”

“Lữ Hành” của vị giác: Khi ẩm thực trở thành chuyến đi trở về ký ức

Ẩm thực, từ lâu, đã vượt ra khỏi khái niệm “ăn để sống”. Nó trở thành một hình thức du hành tinh tế không cần hộ chiếu, không cần vali, chỉ cần một chiếc thìa và trái tim mở rộng. Với không ít người, hành trình khám phá một vùng đất mới bắt đầu từ chợ, từ quán nhỏ góc phố, từ mùi thơm bốc lên từ nồi nước dùng đang sôi sục.

Ý niệm ấy chính là linh hồn của thực đơn “Lữ Hành”, tasting menu mới được ra mắt như một chuyến đi trở về, không bằng tàu xe, mà bằng vị giác. Một hành trình từ Bắc chí Nam, qua 11 món ăn như 11 chương hồi, mỗi món là một “trạm dừng” cảm xúc.

Thay vì mô phỏng lại món ăn truyền thống một cách máy móc, người sáng tạo thực đơn chọn cách đi ngược: tháo gỡ món ăn đến tận lõi để tìm lại linh hồn, rồi dựng lại món ăn theo cách riêng, bằng kỹ thuật hiện đại và cảm xúc cá nhân.

Món đầu tiên – Gamelle of Memories là minh chứng rõ rệt cho điều đó. Lấy cảm hứng từ hộp cơm gamelle mà bao thế hệ từng mang theo trong những năm tháng gian khó, món ăn tái hiện hình ảnh ấy bằng hương vị của lươn nướng than, lươn hun khói và nước dùng xương ninh nhiều giờ ấm đậm, sâu như một lời thì thầm từ đồng quê.

Từ đó, “Lữ Hành” tiếp tục đưa thực khách đi qua các vùng đất khác nhau của Việt Nam: từ cao nguyên sương mù đến đồng bằng sông nước, từ biển cả xanh biếc đến vùng trung du xứ Huế. Mỗi món là một góc nhìn, một hồi tưởng, một giọng kể riêng biệt lúc thanh, lúc đậm, lúc mộc mạc, lúc cầu kỳ. Nhưng tựu trung lại, đó là những mảnh hồn Việt tinh lọc qua kỹ nghệ hiện đại và tinh thần đương đại. Song song với đó, hành trình vị giác còn được mở rộng qua các tuyến pairing được thiết kế để tương tác, bổ sung cho từng món ăn có cồn và phi cồn mang đến trải nghiệm đa tầng lớp và tinh tế cho cả những thực khách yêu thích sự nhẹ nhàng, tinh táo.

Ra đời trong giai đoạn ẩm thực Việt ngày càng khẳng định được vị thế trên bản đồ thế giới “Lữ Hành” không chỉ là một set menu đặc biệt, mà còn là nguyên tuyên ngôn: răng món ăn Việt có thể vừa đầy bản sắc, vừa giàu kỹ thuật, vừa mang tính cá nhân, vừa đánh thức ký ức chung.
Và hành trình ấy vẫn tiếp tục không trên bản đồ, mà trên từng chiếc đĩa. Không bằng đôi chân, mà bằng cảm xúc. Không cần tiếng còi tàu, mà bằng một lời mời rất khẽ: mời bạn lên đường qua từng hương vị.

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